Phan Pi Pop Junction
So, after leaving Wat Chanasongkram, it was nearing noon and super hot and bright. From the Khoa San Area, in order to get to Grand Palace you have to cross a crazy-busy, major roundabout-ish road— Phan Pl Pop Junction. This is literally the epicenter of Bangkok. As mentioned in episode 1 of our Bangkok adventure, traffic in this city is insane! And, it’s mostly comprised of scooter packs! We used the savvy tip of, falling in with a crowd and crossing roads as a group. There really is safety in numbers! We fell in with a massive group of visitors from China.

The halfway point across Phan Pl Pop Junction is a very tall, marble, four-headed elephant monument. Being that it’s in center of the city, it’s quite an impressive-standout landmark.

Four-headed elephant monument at the center of Bangkok

Bottom portion of four-headed elephant monument at Phan Pl Pop Junction

Just Follow The Crowd
Once we made it across the junction, there is no getting lost, all we had to do was move along with the crowd, all headed towards Grand Palace and Wat Pho – the main touristy attractions of Bangkok. Along the way though, we got lured into the Bangkok City Pillar Shrine (San Lak Muang), which is literally across the street from the Grand Palace. Again we figured it was on the way and free, so why not?

The Original Pillar
As it turns out, this traditional Thai shrine is older than the Palace and contains what is believed to be the original pillar erected by King Rama I in 1782 when he moved the nation’s capital across the river from Thonburi to present day Bangkok. Phra Lak Muang (to whom this shrine is dedicated) is the guardian spirit who protects the city. Thus, to this day, Bangkok residents and Thai people visiting the city continue to pay their respects at the shrine, and pray for the well-being of the whole country.

Overall the place was quite packed with families, performing ritual. Offerings of holy water, lotus flowers, garlands of marigold flowers, lighting of candles, the adorning of colorful scarves around pillars, and of course food offerings. Monks offered blessings for a donation.

Holy Water

Monk getting set up at his station to offer blessings to devotees

The Heart of The City
 the main shrine, containing the two golden pillars, people sat on the stairs and on the floor in prayer. The taller pillar is the original (renovated many times of course) erected by King Rama I, and the shorter pillar was erected by King Rama IV in 1852. Originally, both pillars were made of wood. Inside the pillars, are documents outlining the city horoscope.  So, this shrine, really is the heart of the city and considered a sacred and auspicious place.

 Inside the Pillar Shrine. Tall pillar and the shorter pillar. This main shrine has an entrance from each of four sides

It was very cool to be able to observe and partake in this slice of Thai history and culture.

Next, follow us across the street to the Grand Palace!

View of Grand Palace from Bangkok City Pillar Shrine